On my 6th day in Cochabamba, I got to go inside
a Bolivian prison. The prison structure
is quite different here and it was on this occasion that I especially noticed
my mind wanting to make sense of what I was seeing. A million questions and comparisons arose in
my mind and I had to consciously try to set everything aside to simply be
present and observe.
Before going into the prison (there is no distinction
between jails and prisons here), I was given a bit of an orientation so I would
have some information. There are
families living inside the prisons here.
Children up the age of 6 are allowed to live inside, although it seems
there may be many exceptions beyond that age. Anybody that is not a prisoner is allowed to
come and go as they please including the children who leave to go to school
each day.
There are approximately 10 million people in Bolivia and
also approximately 10 million in Michigan. 10,000 people are in
prison in Bolivia. 60,000 people are in
prison in Michigan.
Several of the prisons, including the one I went to, were
not built to be prisons but rather were designed to be housing complexes. “Cells” have to be purchased and there are
not enough for everybody. People can
move about as they please within the prison.
It was described to me as a very loud atmosphere.
With this information, I went with several sisters and
female volunteers to the “male” prison.
We brought no personal belongings with us except copies of our
passports. Several of them were to
distribute milk in a campaign to educate about malnourishment and several of us
were going to help get the little kids shoes.
As we walked up to the building there were a dozen security
guards standing around. Some were
searching bags, some searching people, one checking ID. After making it through this we walked
through a wooden gate. On the other
side, we were warmly greeted by several of the men.
It opened up to a large patio with families eating meals at
plastic picnic tables. It was open air - there was no ceiling. Around the edges
were various food stands, convenience store, and many many men just hanging out
or standing around. We passed through
and made our way to the second floor.
The stairway was narrow, dark, and smelly. Several steps seemed a bit questionable and
the stairwell was packed with people, just barely enough room for people to be
going up and down at the same time. This
floor had a balcony overlooking the patio below around the entire
perimeter. Rooms that seemed mainly for
shops, like making shoes, etc seemed to be on this floor.
We progressed to the third floor where we entered a room of
men hanging out and playing chess, etc.
They all left to make room for the shoe distribution. One prisoner was in charge of the money and
the other was in charge of seeing which shoes fit which children. We waited for a few minutes and once the
children came home from school, they all came running into the room. They would try on their shoes and a parent
had to sign for them. Everybody was very
pleasant and it was hard to tell which parents belonged to which kid as they
all clearly looked out for each other’s families.
Upon leaving the jail, I was able to talk with an Italian
man who has been working inside the jails for a couple of years helping the men
come up with productive businesses. He
answered many of my questions.
Each prisoner only receives $1 US dollar a day. This is a decision between lunch or dinner
and nothing else. Inside the prison,
generally speaking, the ones that have more visitors are the ones that are
better off. If they have family bringing
them food, money, or taking a product of theirs out into the streets to sell –
they can make more money.
There are elections within the prisons where they choose
delegates. You see, there is no security
within the prison. The moment we passed
through the gate into the prison, we went from a dozen security guards to
none. So, they elect who is going to be
in charge of certain matters within the prison walls even to the point of who
is going to be the “doctor”, etc.
The statistics vary with every person I ask but many of the
prisoners have not yet been tried. They
are not sorted into jails by their crime as there is only one “max security”
prison. And, when I asked about the
children’s safety, the Italian man told me that there is a code of morals. The children are left unharmed as they know
that if they were to touch a child, they would be murdered almost
instantly. That is to say that a man may
have killed 20 people to land in jail and yet, he would not even think about
hurting a child within the jail.
I left that day fascinated and struggling to find words to
describe my experience - so many words and descriptions and yet nothing that can adequately paint a picture of what I saw. What is better,
what is worse, or perhaps, what is just different?